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Decadent Dessert Wines | February 2012

 




The category "dessert wine" encompasses a huge amount of diversity. They can be light and floral, rich and jammy, lightly sweet or decadently so, high or low alcohol content, red, white or tawny. It's widely misunderstood and many of the styles are very, very difficult to make, which is why some of them wield a pretty hefty price tag. This month, we’ll dig into why these wines are so special.


Where the Grape is Grown

Since dessert wines can be found all over the world, we thought we would shed some light on the various methods used to make these sweet treats. There are about as many production methods as there are varieties of dessert wines, but many can be broken down into these categories:

Late Harvest – Made by leaving the grapes hanging on the vine as long as possible in order to concentrate grape sugars. Examples of this method include late harvest German Rieslings (Auslesse, Beernauslese, Trokenbeernauslese).

Noble Rot (Botrytis) – Literally, Botrytis is a fungus that punctures holes in the skins of the grapes so that water evaporates even more from the fruit, leaving behind deep, concentrated sugars. Don’t worry, the wine itself shows no sign of actual mold or fungus, but the fruit can look pretty unseemly to the untrained eye. These make very complex and long-lived wines, like Sauternes (traditionally), which is made of botrysized Semillon. Other grapes that can be affected by "noble rot" are Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Riesling. A few examples include Sauternes, Barsac, and Selection des Grains Nobles.

Freezing Grape Clusters – Grapes are picked while frozen on the vine and immediately pressed. The water in the grapes is trapped as ice and does not make its way into the wine. This traditional method is extremely labor-intensive and risky, which is why it can be so expensive. Alternatively, producers can cheat and employ freezers, where grapes are harvested, then frozen and pressed. But while this keeps the price in check, the wine loses all the intensity and complexity of grapes kept on the vine till the absolute last minute. Many eisweins (or ice wines) are made with Riesling or other high acid whites, like Chenin Blanc.

Fortified Wines – In Port or Port-styled wines (true Port is ONLY from Portugal!), the fermentation is arrested by the addition of a spirit (usually aguardente or brandy). Yeast is incapacitated by the suddenly high levels of alcohol and fermentation stops, leaving behind a lot of residual sugar. This results in a wine both sweet and high in alcohol.

Deliberate Raisining – Grapes are allowed to dry on the vine or on mats to concentrate the sugars and get rid of excess water. Examples of this are Vin Santo, Amarone (which isn’t really a dessert wine, but it’s darn good with flourless chocolate cake), and Passito.

Incomplete Fermentation — Fermentation here is stopped before the yeast converts all the sugars to alcohol. The result is a sweet wine with low alcohol content, like Moscato d’Asti and some Rieslings.

What’s with the small bottles?
Dessert wines, from late harvest Rieslings to eiswein to Sauternes, most often come in smaller bottles, usually 500ml or 375ml. Smaller servings are standard, as these are usually rich, decadent treats rather than quaffing wines.

Dessert wines are also very difficult and risky to make. For example, grapes are often left on the vine as long as possible for peak concentration and complexity, but with that comes risk of mildew, rot, and the loss of a crop. It’s no wonder that these bottles are regarded as liquid gold: a labor-intensive and often very tiny harvest without guarantee of a return.


Pairing the Wine with Food
Dessert wines are often delicious enough to be served on their own as dessert. Pairing them with dessert is always a little trickier because the sweetness in the wine must match or exceed the sweetness in your dessert. A rich ruby Port, for example, would be wonderful with chocolate desserts, where as fresher, lighter apple or pear-based desserts would be great with a Moscato d’Asti or late harvest white. Sometimes, it’s more fun and adventurous to pair opposites. Rich, salty, pungent cheeses like Camembert and Roquefort pair beautifully with both Port and Sauternes. Vin Santo, made from raisined grapes from Tuscany, is traditionally paired with lightly sweet almond or anise cookies. Sweeter Spanish Sherry goes well with salted Marcona almonds.

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