November: Dessert Wines!

The category of dessert wines encompasses a wide range from light and floral to rich and jammy.  Dessert wines can be white, red, or tawny, and very sweet or just a bit.  They also range in alcoholic strength.  Sweet wines are widely under-appreciated, especially considering how difficult some of them are to make.   

How sweet wines are made:

Dessert wines can attain their sweetness and concentration by a number of techniques.  The finest sweet wines are made by concentrating the sugar in the grapes. 

Late harvest—made by leaving the grapes hanging on the vine as long as possible in order to concentrate grape sugars. 

Example of this method: many dessert wines wines, including Jurancon and late harvest German Rieslings (Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trokenbeerenauslese)

Noble Rot (Botrytis) makes a very complex and long-lived wine.  Traditionally Sauternes of Botrytisized Semillon but noble rot can affect other grapes such as Riesling or chardonnay.  Wine regions have good and bad years for Botrytis, as the fungus prefers very specific conditions, and destructive rots can threaten to destroy the crop.

Example of this method: Sauternes, Barsac, Seleccion des Grains Nobles

Freezing grape clusters—Grapes are picked while frozen on the vine and immediately pressed. The water in the grapes is trapped as ice and does not make its way into the wine.  This traditional method is extremely labor-intensive, which is reflected in the cost of icewine.  A half bottle can easily cost $100! Alternatively, producers can cheat and employ freezers.  The grapes are harvested then frozen.  This keeps the price in check but the final product is nowhere near as intense and complex as the real deal.  traditionally made from Riesling

Example of this method: Eiswine, Icewine

Vin doux naturels—An already sweet wine’s fermentation is arrested by the addition of spirit (usually brandy). Yeast are incapacitated by these high levels of alcohol.

This results in a wine which is both sweet and strong in alcohol. These are often called “fortified wines.”

Example of this method: Port, Banyuls

Deliberate raisining—drying mature grapes either on the vine or after picking.

Example of this method: Vin Santo, Amarone

Incomplete fermentation— Fermentation is arrested partway, resulting in a sweet wine with low alcohol.

Example of this method: Moscato D’Asti

The Grapes used depend on the region—sweet wines can be made anywhere from Austria to Uruguay . Traditionally producers make a dessert wine from their local grapes.

What’s with the small bottles?

Dessert wines are usually sold in half-bottles (375mL).  These wines are rich and filling, so smaller servings are standard. The smaller bottles also help keep the price tags down, which is good when you’re just trying something new.  By the way, leftover dessert wine will usually keep a little longer because sugar is an excellent preservative.

Pairing Dessert wines with Food

Dessert wines are often best when allowed to shine, by serving them as dessert.  Pairing them with food is a little trickier, but highly rewarding.  You have to match the sweetness level of the food with that of the wine.  For instance, rich and dark red dessert wines and Ports are the best match with chocolate.  Lighter, floral white dessert wines pair beautifully with fruit-based desserts.  Rich, salty and pungent blue cheeses will overpower most dry wines but pair surprisingly well with sweet wines such as Sauternes and Port.

This Month's Selections

Best Bargain
Chambers Muscat NV , Rutherglen Australia (375mL) $15.99
($13.59 with G.O.G.O. discount)

This tawny-colored Australian “sticky” will coat your palate with liquid brown sugar, figs, and dried apricots.  A good match for really sweet desserts.

Most Interesting

Boordy “Eisling” 2004, Maryland 2004 (375mL) $16.99
($14.44 with G.O.G.O. discount)

Always wanted to try an icewine? Boordy’s Eisling is produced by pressing frozen Riesling grapes.  It is light for a dessert wine, with flavors of honeysuckle, melon, and white peach.

Friendliest

Chateau Gravas Sauternes 2003 (375mL) $12.99

($13.59 with G.O.G.O. discount)

Flavors and aromas of honey, apricot, orange with a touch of crème brule.  This isn’t the most complex Sauternes available, but it will give you a good idea of what Sauternes is all about without breaking your budget.  Enjoy it with fruit or nut based desserts or try it with your favorite blue cheese.

Chateau Gravas Sauternes is also available in 750mL bottles for $24.99. ($21.24 with G.O.G.O. discount)

Best in Show

Fonseca Bin 27 Port NV (750mL) $17.99
($15.29 with G.O.G.O. discount)

Delicious ruby port from a great producer.  Fonseca’s Bin 27 is rich and full-bodied with flavors of overripe red fruits and spices.  Port is high in alcohol and makes a good after-dinner drink, especially in cool weather.  Try it with chocolate cake.


If you'd like to explore Dessert wines
in further depth,
come to one of our Tasting Events

(click here)


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