Well what better way to start off the New Year but with the classic American beauty, Chardonnay? Most of us here in the states feel right at home with a glass of creamy, oaky California Chardonnay in our glass. But our goal this month is to discover Chardonnay that boasts a much different character. We’ll find that there is probably a different style of Chardonnay out there for each situation.

Much of the distinct California Chardonnay character that is so familiar to us in comes from aging the wines in small new oak barrels. Often times the barrels are toasted as well. The result is the creamy, buttery, nutty flavors and aromas we know so well. But did you know that Chablis and White Burgundy are also 100% Chardonnay? These Chardonnays are from the Burgundy region of France. In July, we uncovered the secret of Burgundian Pinot Noir, and this month, we’ll do the same for Chardonnay. As with many other grapes, France is the original home to this grape. Here in the heart of Burgundy, some of the world’s most classic-style Chardonnays are produced.

Unlike the very familiar well-oaked California Chardonnay, you will find the French examples are often treated with much less oak. The French barrels used to age the wine here are often 1-2 years old, so they lend much less bold flavors to the wine. Therefore, more of the true aromas and flavors from the grapes and the winemaking process itself are able to shine through.

No matter where Chardonnay is grown, some traits remain constant. Chardonnay is known to be a dry, medium to full-bodied wine with a relatively high alcohol content that can be enjoyed with a number of different foods. Beyond that, winemakers take Chardonnay in so many different directions that you might liken it to a chameleon. Chardonnay can be creamy, butter and oak-y. It can be tropical and exotic with peachy tones, or be reminiscent of pears, apples and stone fruits. Chardonnay can be crisp, bright and acidic, deep, broad, expansive, and mouth coating. Although we can use these qualifiers to describe so many different types of wine, who would have thought they would all be appropriate in describing the singular Chardonnay? What makes Chardonnay so different from region to region? Two things: terroir (including soil and climate), and winemaking styles and decisions.

Food Matching

For the most part, Chardonnay is a white wine than can handle a number of big, rich dishes. Because it is usually quite full-bodied and has a high alcohol level, you will find Chardonnay to be palate cleansing when enjoyed with rich cream or butter sauces.

Try Chardonnay with shellfish, rockfish, crab and lobster, classic roast chicken, veal, and pork. You will find that it matches well with vegetables like corn, spinach, and with mushrooms and a buerre blanc. In fact, American Chardonnay might be the best match in the world for lobster and corn. Chardonnay can also handle a multitude of cheeses, especially more pungent ones. I would stay away from bleu cheeses when trying to find the perfect match.

When trying to pick the Chardonnay for your occasion, consider winemaking styles throughout the world. I suggest you try Chardonnay from different places and different winemakers. Decide for yourself what you like, and what is appropriate for your particular needs.

Where the Grape is Harvested

France: Chardonnay is almost the only white grape allowed to be grown in Burgundy, and these are some of the most classic, long-lived white wines in the world. These wines are generally treated with less oak than those from California. They have higher acidity, and are often a more balanced match for food. Look for wines from the appellations of Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault for luxury bottles, and for more affordable bottles, look for Chablis, St. Aubin, Bourgogne Blanc, Pouilly-Fuisse, and Macon.

United States: California has become extremely well-known for its oaky style Chardonnays. But you will also find a few excellent examples from Oregon and Washington State. Because of the use of expensive new oak barrels in producing these wines, quality bottles can be quite pricey. Some winemakers have turned to using less expensive oak chips to flavor the wines. These bottles will be less expensive, but will not be of the same quality or have much longevity, so consume them young.

Australia: Although you can find un-oaked examples of Chardonnay here, the majority are ripe, massive and oak-y with tropical fruit. Not typically a great source of Chardonnay.

New Zealand: These Chardonnays will typically have much higher acidity than other New World examples. Generally speaking, the further North the wine is from, the softer it will be.

South Africa: Chardonnays produced here are becoming more and more consistent. You will find the winemaking style to generally be more reserved than that of California, Australia or New Zealand. Here the fruit is peachy and bright.

Other Regions: Italy, Spain, Bulgaria, Hungary, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Chile, Argentina, and yes, even Canada. Italy and Argentina can be better sources of Chardonnay than Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, so don’t discount these wines. Everyone is getting into the Chardonnay game!

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